The legendary Western Breach
There is a great deal of misinformation in circulation about the Great Western Breach which is an ascent route to the summit which is most commonly, but not exclusively, used via the Shira or Lemosho Route. To separate fact from fiction we have addressed some of the morecommon misconceptions surrounding this phenomenon:
FICTION: The Western Breach is an easy climb
FACT: This is not so. The Western Breach is in fact the most physically challenging of all the approaches to the summit of Kibo. (Uhuru Peak) The Breach ascends a 3000ft nearly vertical rock face from Arrow Glacier Hut to the crater’s rim (from 15 700ft to about 18 600ft), and it requires heavy leg work to cope with the gradient and the scree underfoot. At the same time it is necessary to keep more than one eye open for falling or loose rocks which make up the principal danger of this route. In addition, and at certain times of the year, ice and snow is a hazard.
FICTION: There is no night climbing (starting at midnight) on this route.
FACT: While it is fair to say that the summit day does not begin as is usual elsewhere in the early hours of the morning but the ascent through the breach itself does begin as early as possible in order to make use of the fact that the loose rock formations are frozen in place. Obviously when the sun comes up and the frost melts the hazard of insecure footing is much greater. The goal is to reach the crater’s rim just after sunrise for optimum safety.
FICTION: Only the Western Breach climbers may stay in the crater overnight.
FACT: Climbers may choose to spend the night in the crater on any of the three ascent paths to Kibo. Overnighting in or near the crater makes most sense when using the Western Breach route since a steep climb is necessary from the crater floor (from Furtwangler Glacier) to Uhuru Peak. On other routes this is not so, and the climb to the summit is more gradual. Spending the night in the crater certainly does offer more of a chance to enjoy the spectacle of the crater and the summit, but it is also extremely hard on the mind and body to camp at that altitude.
FICTION: Only climbers on the Shira Route can use the Western Breach.
FACT: Any climb that accesses the Shira Plateau can ascend the Western Breach including the Machame, Shira and Rongai via the Summit Circuit North Route.
Both the Shira Route and the Machame Trail provide excellent climb options. Both are challenging and beautiful, and both are very sparsely used in comparison to the main commercial route of Marangu Trail.
